Under South African sectional title law, balconies are considered common property, but with an important nuance:
Legal Position
Common property by default:
In the Sectional Titles Schemes Management Act (STSMA), anything outside the median line of the walls, floors, and ceilings of a section (unit) is deemed common property. This includes external walls, roofs, and balconies.
Balcony exclusive use rights:
Individual owners have them as exclusive-use areas, even though they are common property. This means the owner has the right to use them, but the body corporate retains ownership.
Balcony maintenance responsibility:
Unless the scheme rules specify otherwise, the body corporate is responsible for maintaining common property. However, the owner may be responsible for the maintenance costs.
The Vital Importance of Proper Rain and Stormwater Management Around Your Home’s Foundation
Swales can be used for drainage in new properties before the gardens and lawns are established. In established gardens, the use of sub-surface drainage is recommended.
Managingrain and stormwater effectively is a critical yet often overlooked aspect of home maintenance. Rain and stormwater, pooling on paving, gardens, and lawns, near and against the house, can pose severe risks to the plinth and foundation footing. Therefore, understanding these risks and taking preventative measuresis essential for maintaining the structural integrity of your home.
Rain and Stormwater Management Prevents Structural Damage
The foundation footing is your home’s backbone. Excessive moisture around it can weaken the supporting soil, causing it to erode and destabilise. This can result in uneven foundation settling, leading to cracks in walls, floors, and ceilings. The plinth, which acts as the transitional layer between the foundation footing and the superstructure, is particularly vulnerable to water damage. In addition, moisture can seep into the plinth, causing it to deteriorate and compromising the stability of the entire building.
Avoiding Dampness and Mould Growth
Rain and stormwater pooling around your home create the perfect conditions for mould and mildew to flourish. Mould poses significant health risks, such as respiratory problems and allergic reactions. It can also lead to extensive damage to building materials. Mould spores can infiltrate walls, floors, and furniture, necessitating costly repairs and replacements. Moreover, directing rain and stormwater away from the foundation footing and plinth creates a dry environment that discourages mould growth, promoting a healthier and safer living space.
Extending the Longevity of Building Materials
Moisture is particularly harsh on building materials like concrete, plasterwork, and brick. Prolonged exposure to water can cause these materials to deteriorate prematurely. Concrete can crack and spall, and bricks can crumble and lose structural integrity. As a result, by ensuring that rain and stormwater are directed away from the plinth and foundation footing, you can significantly extend the lifespan of these materials. This not only reduces maintenance costs but also preserves the overall strength and durability of your home.
Protecting Your Gardens and Lawn, and Landscaping
Effective rain and stormwater management is also beneficial for your gardens and lawns. Pooling stormwater can oversaturate plant roots, leading to root rot and plant and lawn death. By ensuring proper drainage, you create a healthier environment for your plants and lawn to thrive. Additionally, a well-drained garden and lawn prevent excess moisture from seeping into the soil around your home’s foundation footing, reducing the risk of structural damage.
Implementing Practical Rain and Stormwater Management Solutions
Several practical solutions can help you manage rain and stormwater effectively and protect your home:
Gutter and Downpipe Maintenance: Regularly clean and maintain gutters and downpipesto ensure they direct rainwater away from the house. Install downpipe extensions to carry rainwater farther from the foundation footing.
Grading: Ensure the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation footing. This natural drainage technique (swales) helps divert rain and stormwater away from the house.
Sub-soil Drains: Installing sub-soil drainage in problem areas around your property can efficiently channel rain and stormwater away from the foundation footing. These drains consist of perforated pipes buried in the ground, allowing water to flow away from the house.
Rainwater Harvesting: Collecting rainwater in tanks can help reduce the amount of rain and stormwater pooling around your home. This water can be repurposed for gardening or other outdoor uses.
Conclusion
In summary, keeping rainwater, stormwater, and pooled water away from your home’s plinth and foundation footing is essential for preventing structural damage, avoiding dampness and mould growth, extending the longevity of building materials, and maintaining a healthy garden and lawn. By implementing effective rain and stormwater management practices, you can protect your home, ensure a safer living environment, and safeguard your investment for the long term. Proper rain and stormwater management is not just about preservation but proactive protection for your home.
The 2021 SANS 10400-XA revision requires the construction of cavity walls in place of 230 mm solid brick external walls. This energy-saving change is applicable in all the energy zones in South Africa except in zones 3, 5 and 5H.
How wise this course of action is considering the lack of skills in the building trade will have to be seen!
What is a cavity wall?
A cavity wall consists of two skins separated by a hollow space (cavity). The advantage is that a cavity wall gives better thermal insulation than a solid wall. The space between the two leaves of cavity walls reduces heat transmission into the building from outside.
The following are the advantages of cavity walls when compared to solid walls.
This type of wall gives better thermal insulation than solid walls.
The hollow space between leaves prevents moisture penetration through the wall from the outside. This prevents dampness internally.
They also act as good sound insulators.
These walls also prevent efflorescence from occurring.
Construction of cavity walls
The construction of these walls is technically more difficult than for solid 230 mm walls.
The cavity between the two masonry leaves should be a minimum of 50 mm. The gap must be consistent from the bottom of the wall to the top.
Below the DPC level, the bricklayer must fill up the wall cavity with concrete or mortar before installing the DPC.
The bricklayer then installs the DPC at slab level to step down from the slab-level interior wall across the cavity to the outer wall and weep holes. Its purpose is to drain away any water in the cavity towards the weep holes to discharge it outside.
Weep holes must be provided in the external leaf above the Damp Proof Course (DPC) at every 4th brick horizontally.
The bricklayer must build in wall ties at every 5th course of brickwork vertically and space them horizontally at every second brick to tie the two leaves of brickwork together.
Mortar dropping down in the cavity can stop water from draining away. The bricklayer should leave some bricks out temporarily at the DPC level to clear mortar droppings at the end of each day’s work.
The normal method of preventing mortar droppings from falling to the base of the cavity is to use a cloth-rapped batten (38 x 38 mm) or specially sized 50 x 38 mm planed to 45 mm. The bricklayer places the batten on the wall ties while building the wall. The bricklayer raises the batten, using wire tied to its ends and then positions it on the next row of ties.
Furthermore, the bricklayer should install a vertical DPC on the sides of doors and windows when closing off the cavity wall. This is to prevent water from driving to the inner face.
In addition, the bricklayer should install a layer of DPC and weep holes in the cavity above exposed doors and windows similar to the DPC at floor level. This is to prevent moisture from penetrating the inner leaf.
At the roof line, the bricklayer should fill or brick up the cavity for two or three courses below the roofline to stiffen and distribute the load over both leaves. He should also build in roof ties at this level to tie down the roof trusses or beams.
No wide brick force can be used to span both leaves and cavities of brickwork. A 90 mm width of brickforce will need to be used on every 5th layer of brickwork on both leaves up to window or door height and every course above that until the cavity is closed at roof height.
My Concernswith the new requirements
The Western Cape Province has already been following this practice for many years. Cavity walls are also better for damp prevention than solid walls. The introduction of cavity walls nationally is to satisfy regulatory requirements for building energy efficiency.
However, such sweeping changes to the construction of brick buildings in other areas of the country may have serious consequences because of skills shortages. They may lead or may have led to substandard work because of the lack of sufficient skills and training of bricklayers and their supervisors!
The newer generation of bricklayers and builders never adhered fully to the requirements of the building regulations before with the construction of solid 230 mm walls! Most of them have had no experience with building cavity walls either!
I have listed some of the issues I have seen on building sites below:
In my experience, the bricklayers in the building trade never used collar jointing of the solid brick walls leading to weakened wall structures.
The bricklayers seldom place the DPC on a half layer of mortar on the brickwork. Instead, they place the DPC directly on the brickwork. This often led to moisture intrusion in the structure at the DPC level.
Generally, no bricklayer has installed DPC on the sides or above the door and window openings to prevent moisture intrusion through the wall at the windows and doors inland from the coastal areas.
Few bricklayers build in the correct number of layers of brickforce reinforcing above windows and doors.
Often, the bricklayers tooth the brickwork of the internal walls to external walls and corners instead of stepping back the brickwork as required.
The mixing of large amounts of mortar resulting in the retempering (adding additional water) of mortar is a common practice. This causes weakened mortar and brickwork.
Most of the issues result from a lack of knowledge and training. This includes not only the bricklayers but also the supervisors!
So how do we get the bricklayers to build the more technical cavity walls correctly?
One way is to train the supervisors who in turn can train the bricklayers!
Various brick associations and training schools offer bricklaying training. The various training associations and schools may be open to do on-site training.
Articles by the Clay Brick Association can update supervisors and bricklayers with the technicalities of building a cavity wall.
Let us hope the above happens so that new homeowners will have properly constructed homes!
Conclusion
With the correct training, newly built cavity walls will provide the thermal benefit required by the new revision of SANS 10400-XA. In addition, the construction of cavity walls will minimise moisture intrusion into new buildings if constructed properly. They also provide sound insulation benefits.
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